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Wednesday, November 30, 2011

1999 nissan maxima problems.....?

1999 nissan maxima problems.....?


I'm having issues with my 4th generation nissan maxima... Ok i changed my spark plugs ,air filter,pvc valve, also I put sea foam in through the vacuum line , oil crank, and gas tank... Changed my oil also hoping this will clear my service engine soon amber light.. after all this I go to auto zone parts store asked a manager to scan for this issue...the guy gives me 4 codes with possible or accurate issues... Code P0138 (O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)...CODE P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction.....CODE P0325 -Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction.........CODE P0139-Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2).... OK HE ALSO TELL ME TO CHECK THIS OUT WITH A SHOP FOR VERIFICATION... Im not sure about the accuracy of the scanner... All i know that the car does shakes at high speeds up between 65-80 mph.... At a stop while the car is still in drive it atttemps to jerk a bit while still holding the brakes ... This is about it.. may some can can give me some insight about these issues.. thanks in advance.. i truly beleive that no answer is a wrong answer otherwise i wouldnot ask for help if i already knew how to solve the problem..|||Sounds like seafoam may or may not have affected the old worn out O2 sensors. How many miles? Don't worry about the Knock sensor P0325 that will not light the SES light. Your biggest problem is P0400 EGR flow malfunction. carbon clogged egr passage way "guide tube" at the back of the intake manifold. About 3.5 hour job at your Nissan dealer. Monotoring the o2 sensors will confirm the sensors are not functioning properly. My suggestion fix the carbon clogged passage way first clear all the codes and wait and see what codes come back. Ocasional misfire could be a coil breaking down or cracked spark plug insulator but your car does not have a ING%26gt;Primary code or a specific P0300 to P0306 code. Not preforming the correct repair will ruin your cat converters and that really gets expensive.

Disabling EGR valve on Toyota Hilux Turbo Diesel?

My Hilux has a D4-D engine that is designed for low Sulphur Diesel. In Jamaica, we dont have low sulphur deisel and the excess sulphur turns into suplhuric acid and damages the engine. The concept is that by not reintroducing exhaust gas back into the intake, less sulphur will get to the combustion chamber. The valve doesnt always stay open so running without recirculation shouldnt be a problem. Jamaica has no emmissions testing. Tell me if I'm doin the right thing.|||I am not sure on this but I think there might be some type of catalytic type convertor in the exhaust system that will be damaged by regular sulfur grade. From your exhaust manifold, do a visual check down to the end of the pipe. If you see a muffler type devise before the actual muffler, that may be your concern and I would ask a mechanic if it needs to be removed as emissions are not a standard in your area. If that is the case, it will clog, you will need a replacement pipe.

2001 ranger with a p0402 check engine code. Can anyone help?

I have a 2001 ranger with a 3.0 v6. It recently had new heads put on there from where it overheated to the point of almost destroying the engine due to firestone putting the thermostat in backwards.





I have a check engine light and the code for it is p0402 which runs as "excessive exhaust recirculation." This could be a faulty EGR sensor, stuck EGR valve or bad PCV. I recently had the catalytic converters hulled (yes, I am aware of the implications, no need to tell me) and the reservoir in the exhaust cleaned. The engine runs rough and runs slightly worse when I shift it into gear. When I shift it into gear (its an automatic, to be specific), it lurches slightly. Not much, but enough to notice if you are paying attention. It also squeals/whistles when I slow down. I don't have to hit the breaks and its not when I use them but when I am at about ~10 miles/hr and a low rpm, it does it. It goes away almost every time as soon as I tough the gas. Seems like it's letting out pressure and stops doing so when I press the gas but resumes when I stop until it is done.





My girlfriend, who loves my truck and would to have it fixed to its original condition, likened the sound it makes to rudolph's nose on the Christmas special that has been running every year on TV.





Can anyone please tell me what to do. Is it the EGR sensor/valve or the PCV? Could it be something else entirely? Please help! Thank you in advance!|||When you said you had the catalytic converters "hulled", did you by passed or removed? Bear in mind that you have two pre-cat O2 sensors and one post-cat O2 sensor. If the catalytic converter is missing, bypassed or expired altogther, none or poor O2 signal will reach the modlue resulting in engine performance. Also check your Idle Control Solenoid (ICS)|||According to the "Automotive Computer Codes" Techbook by Haynes a P0402 code is a: "Exhaust Gas Recirculation circuit, range or performance problem". This is normally known as the EGR valve.


Assuming that the EGR valve is the culprit of your problem -The EVP sensor (EGR valve position sensor) could also be the problem. Replacing the EGR valve should take care of that.





If you live by and Auto Zone you can also go by there and have them check it out with a computer that diagnosis the codes on your vehicle.|||The rudolph noise (lol) is probably a vacuum leak.





Knowing fords, the P0402 is probably a faulty DPFE sensor or broken hoses, very common





But my question is, why don't you have the shop that replaced the heads fix it for free??? They obviously screwed up if you have a vacuum leak and rough idle. Not sayin they caused the EGR code too, but I guess its possible

Car Stops In The Middle Of Driving?

I have a 2001 Mazda 626, 6 cylinder. I recently had to get the EGR valve taken out and cleaned, and then the engine light came on and was constantly blinking, come to find out cylinder 2 was misfiring, they thought it was the fuel injector so they changed it yesterday and it was running ok at first but then it was hesitating to start, and the check engine light came on again and stayed on, I took it to Advance and Auto Zone to have them check the code and the code said PO400 restricted gas recirculation exhaust or something like that, it had to do with the EGR. Anyways they reset the code and the light didn't come back on. Today on the way to lunch I go to take a turn and my car literally stopped in the middle of the road, it startled me and I even looked to make sure I didn't knock it into neutral. I tried to pull over but my steering wheel was locked up. I turned off the car turned it back on and it started up. But was still hard on turns. What could it be?|||It's funny that it just died in traffic, I would go back to the place that cleaned the EGR valve and ask them to do right this time, for free. But I'd ask nicely because you get things done that way. As far as you stiff steering, when you turn the wheel of a vehicle equipped with power steer when the car is not on you can push power steering fluid out of the reservoir. You better check the power steering level to be sure you are not low, because that would cause the steering to continue to be stiff after starting it.


Hope this helps.|||What it is is poor diagnosis %26amp; repair by cut-rate stores w/o Mazda's proprietary database, special tools and experienced technicians.





Have only Mazda diagnose %26amp; repair it.





Always have only the name-brand dealer, Mazda in this case, do at least the oil-filter changes.





===============





“Quick lube shops competing for your business cave into pressure for bargain oil changes.





“To cut costs, they might buy single weight oil in bulk or use recycled oil. They use cheaper, less durable oil filters.





“Low-wage, inexperienced technicians sometimes make servicing mistakes when trying to work faster.”


[No diss to good, independent mechanics.]





http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm





----------------------------------





“…independent mechanics complain they lack the proprietary tools and data to service many late-model cars…” some 2004 models and earlier. Wall St Journal, Feb, 2011.


. .


http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424…


. .


Independent auto mechanics seek “Right to Repair” law allowing them access to manufacturers’ databases.

I went to auto zone and got my Obd code and i got P0401?Its a ford focus zx3 2001?

"Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected" Now what would be the next thing to do? Ive been reading the Haynes Auto Repair and its good but the black and white pictures are just not helping it be better if they were colored pics. And i got doubts about the cars parts i think some are not even the one's meant to be there. whish i had a pic. where it showed the original partz... would be great help.|||What you want to find is the EGR valve. Sometimes all they need is to clean the carbon out and don't forget to clean out any passageway from the EGR through the block.


Good luck.

Emission failed, codes provided, need info?

My 2000 Ford Windstar just failed emissions (passed inspection with flying colors) The following codes were given as reason why:





P0401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected


P0171: System too lean: (Bank 1)


P0174: System too lean: (Bank 2)





I have three questions:





1) What to do the codes mean in layman's terms?


2) How expensive are the fixes and what do they involve?


3) Are there any ways around this, to get it to pass emissions without spending too much money?





Thanks,





Ashley|||You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere on the engine. Check the vacuum line going to the EGR valve and gaskets. Find the leak and repair it. That should take care of all of these codes.





A frequently used method by professional mechanics is the use of starting fluid or brake wash. Simply spray around the engine with it running ( not on the exhaust ) and listen for a change in engine noise. Once You have found the area, turn the engine off and check for cracked vacuum hoses or leaky gaskets.|||The diag for these codes is a pain in the bum. You have a vacuum leak caused by the EGR being in the open position. The EGR code can be caused by a number of things: 1) the EGR is stuck open 2) the PFE has failed to give the correct signal to the EGR 3) the DPFE has failed to give the correct signal to the PFE causing it give the wrong signal for the EGR.





Start with the EGR and see if you can get a scanner to make it work. This is probably the problem and a new EGR is not that much. If it is not the problem you need to go into the PFE diag.





There is a procedure for this diagnosis and it is in All-Data or a Ford manual which I don't have with me. It could take as much as an hour labour to diagnose and maybe an hour or less to repair.


It would be difficult to beat this part of the emissions system on this vehicle unless you can get the EGR closed and run it through that way.





Hope this helps

Obd II error codes. any ideas?

p0125 = insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control


p0401 = exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected


p0420 = catalyst system bank 1 efficiency below threshold|||you asked for more help





wow you sure have done a lot i wish you would have brought it into my shop i think i could have found the real problem without all the expense


what your describing is classic symptoms of a head gasket gone bad it will set all the codes you have mentioned and give you all the problems as well


2 ways to test


1 fill radiator leave the radiator cap off start car look for antifreeze to gush out of radiator or steady stream of bubbles while the engine is cold


2 there is a chemical test that can be done as well





it wont necessarily have coolant in the oil as the part of the gasket that fails is between the piston and the nearest coolant passageways sealers wont work here you must pull the heads and have them machined





i have done this job many times on that model as most people don't fill the radiator properly


hope this helps





po125 change the thermostat


po401 clean pipes that go to egr valve remove valve to clean inside also can be broken vacuum lines that go to it


po420 clear codes after other codes fixed to see if it come back on Thain you will need a scan tool that shows live data to test further|||Once your engine coolant temperature is verified to be about 200 degrees F at hot engine idle using a non contact temperature gun pointed at the thermostat housing, then check the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor to make sure it's telling the computer that the engine coolant is hot. The EGR valve and EGR intake manifold passageways need to be cleaned of carbon deposits that are restricting the flow of exhaust gases back into the intake manifold. You can add a carbon cleaner to your fuel tank to help the problem.


http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/conten鈥?/a>


http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>|||sounds like the O2 sensor is screwing up to me.





the bad thing is it could be either one that is messing up which will cause the engine to run different to try and fix the problems it is reading|||Hi oosmurfe: Code p0125 This has to do with engine temperature .. If your car is not getting up to operating temperature reasonably quickly, replace the engine thermostat. I would try this first ..


Code p0401 It is part of the vehicle emmissions system, and is used to reduce combustion temperature . Either the sensor on your EGR is bad, or the valve itself if stuck. You will need a pro to help with this EGRs are tricky ..


Code p0420 If the car has a lot of mileage .. It's probably the catalytic converter. They can be very expensive . So get very good advice about your problem .. I hope this is helpful .

Question about my car...?

Just yesterday my service engine soon light came on in my 1997 Plymouth Neon Expresso. So just today I ran up to autozone where my friend works and had him hook it up to a diagnostic machine to get a diagnosis. The Following is exactly what the diagnosis says...





Troubleshooting P0401


OEM Brand: Domestic





Definition:





EGR system fault (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)





Explanation:





The ECM has detected too little flow on the EGR system.





Probable Causes:





1- Blocked passage on EGR system


2- Failed EGR valve


3- EGR solenoid faulty


4- Failed EGR pressure sensor where applicable


5- Failed EGR position sensore where applicable





Before I ask any questions. Just know that with all honesty I see/hear no difference in my cars performance, whether i'm going city/highway speeds, or idleing. I'm a college student and I have a fulltime job so I need to know exactly what i'm looking at in price range for part/labor.





So heres my questions:





1. What would be your guess as to what exactly is wrong?


2. What is the best way to go about fixing it?


3. What is the average price for the part/parts I'd need?


4. How much labor does it require/ what will labor costs be?


5. Could I possibly do the job myself?


6. Is it ok to drive this car to class/work in the meantime?


7. Will driving it cause any harmful damage to my car?





I thank any/all readers for their feedback, especially those qualified mechanics, thanks.





Most of all, please include whether its ok to drive on it or not please.|||Perfectly safe to drive. If you live in an area that does roadside Emissions testing that is a legal issue. E.G.R. (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is a component of the vehicle emissions system and will do no immediate harm to the engine. The corrective measures are usually beond the novice mechanics ability as most likely the orifices in the intake are partially clogged throwing off the reading. That has been the problem in 99.9 % of the vehicles I have worked on.|||5-yes #6-yes #7-no|||egr valve failure is most common out of all the probable causes above. and the first guy is right. you can drive the car in the mean time.|||1. the exact problem is your EGR system has failed due to age of car, worn out. you must replace EGR valve, EGR pressure and positioning sensors. when EGR fails, you must replace all 3 as they are all part of the same function.





2.best way to fix, go to auto shop, do not try yourself if you have no experience or do not know where these items are located.





3.i have no clue about price. every car is different, ive only done it on toyota camrys, and all 3 items usually go about 80-100 dollars total.





4.labor should be 1 hour. no more. dont be fooled!





5.only with experience. if never done it, dont try it.





6.yes its ok to drive but not recommended. if you persist on driving with this problem for a long time you might feel a change in idle, also performace, gas mileage and not to mention you are releasing emissions into the air. thats the main purpose of the EGR.





7. the EGR system recirculates some of the exhaust gas and sends it back into your intake, and then to your engine for combustion, it cant possibly harm your car to the point of failure, but With EGR system functionning properly, your car will perform as it should.|||1) EGR is carboned, blocking air flow


2) R%26amp;R the EGR valve


3) EGR Valve $88.99 @ O'Reilly's


EGR Gasket $2.99 @ O'Reilly's


4) Labor about an hour, depends on your area. Like $60


5) Yes, if you are handy with tools.


6) Yes


7) No, but it is failing and there is a chance it will stick in the open position which creates a huge vacuum leak so the engine will not run below 2k RPM

My 91 Honda civic is giving me an ecu error code?

code 2 (oxygen sensor) code 10 (Intake Air Pressure Sensor) code 12 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Lift Sensor), I just did an engine swap and it was just a regular stock motor (all I could afford), changed pistons, head gasket, timing belt, water pump, oil filter etc... now its puffing a rich white smoke and stuttering to accelerate and idling very high. Can anyone tell me why? I think I need to change the o2 sensor but just need some suggestions....please help.|||code #2 (replace the o2 sensor)

code #10 (check to see if IAT sensor is not plugged in or properly plugged in. if it is replace the sensor)

code #12 (EGR check to see if plugged in and if not replace it)



If you still have the old engine take the IAT sensor and EGR valve from that. Go to HONDA for the o2 even if its a few extra dollars. After market o2's are never right voltage always seems to be off a bit. If still you have the white smoke it will need either rings or valve seals.

I am assuming all the new parts IE pistons are new. Did you bother to have the block machined or atleast the cylinder walls board out. Do you know the history of the engine when you got it.

My 2000 Ford taurus is just getting 12 MPG average, here are scan RESULTS.....?

Hello everyone, I'm confident that there is a solution for my problem as opposed for me to settle on 12 MPG. So I purchased a ELM327 OBD scanner and used EasyOBD2 free software.





Also I disconnected my MAF sensor to see if i noticed any improvement however haven't driven yet since disconnecting, but check engine light did come on after a test run which was expectable.


(Was told that I should disconnect MAF, or O2 sensors to see if I notice an improvement disconnecting a faulty sensor, which now honestly I suspect MAF or O2)





The car has been a gentle ride, engine sounds strong, transmission good, besides 2 really cold days that it gave me some trouble to starting and RPM's jumped around that day after it turned on I NEVER received a check engine light before I'm sure there is information here that can conclude a solution.





Here is a detailed summary for your fair opinion.





-Car was purchased from a friend who alway gave good maintenance. (88K Miles)


-Has always given me around 12-13 MPG since purchase. (Friend never bothered finding mpg's)


-Received a FULL tune up just 2 months ago with same results :(. [LIST OF PARTS]


Air filter, Fuel filter, Sparkplugs + wires, Hcv valve, Oil change. Tires filled to 32 PSI.


-I'm an economic driver... try to keep the automatic on the highest gear without hard accelerating, never jackrabbit, overdrive ON always, anticipating stops... etc...


-My 12MPG average is with 60% city 40% highway, usually getting a terrible 160-180 miles / 13 gallon fillup.





Scanner Results are (CAR ON IDLE)


Absolute Throttle Position 16.9 %


Engine Speed 782.75 Rpm


Vehicle Speed 0 Kmh 0 Mph


Calculated Load 29.0 %


Ignition Timing Advance Cyl #1 32 Degrees Advance (+)


Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop Control using Oxygen Sensor - Normal


Fuel System 2 Status Not Available


--------------------------------------鈥?br>

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 14.06 % Rich (+)


Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 21.09 % Rich (+)


Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 Not Available


Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 Not Available


Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 0.00 %


Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 0.00 %


Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 Not Available


Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 Not Available


--------------------------------------鈥?br>

Mass Air Flow 0.00 g/s 0.0 lb/min


Intake Manifold Pressure Not Available


Fuel Pressure 270 kPaG 39.2 PsiG


--------------------------------------鈥?br>

Coolant Temperature 60 Deg C 140.0 Deg F


Intake Air Temperature -40 Deg C -40.0 Deg F


--------------------------------------鈥?br>

Continuous Monitoring Tests


Misfire Completed


Fuel System Completed


Components Completed


Non Continuous Monitoring Tests


Catalyst Not Completed


Evaporative System Not Completed


Oxygen Sensor Not Completed


Oxygen Sensor Heater Not Completed


Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Not Completed|||I have owned both a 2000 and 2001 Taurus - both of them had problems with air intake leaks. There are many vacuum ports and hoses attached to the air intake system, and the more that there are the more likely that you will experience an air leak. These can be very hard to track down.








Also, don't overlook possibly faulty o2 sensors.|||Interesting..... Something is not right|||I would not recommend disconnecting the 02 sensors or the MAF because that will cause your vehicles PCM to use a default setting which may give you even worse MPG. Looks like your vehicle is trying to add fuel (run rich) because A) It is running lean (too much air) which can be caused by un metered air or B) it thinks its cold. Looks like your intake air temp (IAT) is reading -40 deg F which is obviously extremely cold, this would cause your PCM to command the use of more fuel then is necessary therefor causing low MPG. I would recommend re-checking your IAT with your scanner once more both when the vehicle is cold and when it is warmed up to normal temps. If it still shows -40 or negative anything then I would check the connector at the IAT for it being loose or corroded. If the connector is ok then I would suspect a bad IAT sensor. Also your short term fuel trims should be switching from positive to negative, you can monitor this with your scanner with the vehicle at idle. Hope this helps.

I need help with my "check engine light" on my 2000 Ford F150.?

Autozone said the code revealed: The PCM has determiend that there is insufficient flow in the exhaust gas recirculation system. We replaced the EGR Valve. We disconnected the battery cables. Within a short trip, the "check engine light" was on again. Help please.|||on a 2000 model disconnecting the battery cables wont erase the computer it has to be done with a scanner,that may be all that's wrong with it now,other wise it may still have a problem,but you,ll not know this until you get it cleared off with a scanner,then if it comes back on there's still a problem with it,good luck on it,|||Dodge Man is on the money,


no more comment.(from my side)|||It sounds like a oxygen sensor to me.you should have 2 one at the headers and one by the muffler.Have autozone check the code again.That code covers alot of things,you might want to take it in to the shop.HOPE THIS HELPED!

2005 chrysler 300 engine light on?

My engine light has been on for 2 weeks now. I haven't experienced any difference in my car while driving with the light on. The codes that the OBDII give are P0406 %26amp; P2008. The P0406 says exhaust gas recirculation sensor A circuit high. The P2008 says intake manifold runner control (IMRC) solenoid control circuit. Are these big problems?? Easy to fix or do I have to bite the bullet and spend a ton of money at the dealership?? Thanks|||dont need dealership when there ar shops who do nothing but work on car where dealer in busniss to sell cars and code reader only tell what it might be and you know that already cant repair it yourself a shop man not a dealership which is highest place to go and less chance they get it right shop man wil save you money stop going to dealership for work go to a shop|||it shouldnt cost to much money to fix it maybe a hundred, if you pay anymore than 200 dollars to fix it your getting ripped off!|||I would start by changing the gas cap first.|||which engine 3.5l v6

Hyundai XG300L. Check Engine Light. Codes, P0431 and P0401. Need step by step instructions to fix it.?

Hi,





I have a Hyundai XG300L year 2001. Check Engine light is on and I am getting two codes:


-P0431 (Warm up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2) and


-P0401 (Exhaust gas Recirculation flow insufficient detected)





I am wondering what my steps should be to diagnose the exact malfunction part? is there a possible common cause of these two issues?





Would appreciate any help.





Regards,





Atif|||something is clogging your exhaust and the cats are getting warm from the back pressure.

2001 SS Monte Carlo Emissions issues?

My girl friends 2001 Monte Carlo was not passing Emissions. I had run a diagnostic on it and initially had a P1404 code (EGR valve pintle position open). I replaced the EGR Valve, cleared the codes and after 10 miles the check engine light came back on. Ran the diagnostic on it again and got a P0404 code (Exhaust gas recirculation circuit range or performance problem). Yep… I was getting a little frustrated (ok, pissed). Doing some shade tree mechanics… I changed the air cleaner, cleared the code and the check engine light hasn’t come back on since, go figure. Note to self… start with the easy things first. Here’s the issue….. the car was been driven 50+ miles and we took it back in to get re-tested and the emissions test facility says it can be tested because the following monitors were not ready “Catalyst, Evaporative system and Oxygen Heater”. Is this something that will eventually be “ready” or is there something else I need to do? Thanks in advance for looking and any feedback.


Rick


|||There is a re-flash for the PCM regarding the p1404 code.

FAILED EMISSION TEST!?! 99 Nissan Max with 218,000 miles on her yet she still purrrrs like a kitten.?

Anywho she failed the emission test as I knew she would because the check engine light is on.





Does anyone know what the codes listed below mean in laymen terms? What has to be fixed? What effect they have on driving the car? Expected cost?





Also, if I get 1 of the 3 fixed will that allow me to pass the emission test?





P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)


P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow


P1320 - no description was given


Thanks!|||The knock sensor detects pre-ignition and will retard the timing to prevent damage. So if you are seeing a code for it, the sensor has probably failed.





So that needs to be replaced.





The next code is what's called an EGR for short. It's common that this fails and causes a test to fail. It recirculates exhaust gas back into the engine to re-burn and keep emissions down.





The tech tests it, if it doesn't work, the car fails. So there are two ways to go here. The first option is to remove and clean the EGR. If the diaphram isn't damaged, you can save it. But understand it's clogged with carbon, and it's tough to remove. Otherwise, just replace it. One last note, it could appear to be bad if it isn't getting vaccum. Check vaccum hoses going to it.





The p1320 is a misfire code from what I could find on the net. It's probably related to the first knock sensor code. So the source of both these codes could be something causing a misfire. That would be a bad spark plug, bad spark plug wire, or you could even have a funky injector in that one cylinder.





Once the repairs are made, you'll need to clear the code with a code puller. You can usually find one on ebay (OBD II) for under 50 bucks.





Don't try to reset the light without fixing things, you won't fool the smog tech because the car gets connected to their computer and it will detect that the codes were recently cleared, and that codes are pending (meaning nothing was fixed)





After clearing the codes, you'll know the repairs are ok because the light won't come back on AND when you check again for codes, there will be no pending codes.

1997 Honda Accord EGR & Check engine light issues?

I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX-V6 with about 165K miles on it. Back in Nov, I got the check engine light on and took it to Tire Plus and they determined that it was the O2 sensor, which they replaced. Everything was fine till about end of Jan when the light came back on. Took it to a different mechanic and he determined that one of my cylinders was misfiring. He did a complete tune up (sparks, rotors, caps, wires, fuel filter, etc). But a few days later the light came back up again. This time it was EGR (code P0401-Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Insufficient Flow ). The mechanic cleaned out the EGR value and everything else and reset it. Well after a week, the light came back AGAIN. Since I am out of warranty, the dealer was going to charge me to replace the EGR valve. So I bought the EGR unit seperately and had it installed. The computer was reset, but about a week later the light kept coming back on with the same P0401 code!! Even the PCV valve was replaced. What could be the issue?|||It could be something simple as a vaccum hose becoming disconnected or leaking. I remember having an EGR code on my Toyota Highlander and after finding a disconnected vaccum tube and reconnecting it, the code went away after resetting it. So inspect the vaccum hoses that conect to the sensors in your engine. Vaccum hoses are the small hollow tubes that carry air, not wires.

What is wrong with my 1994 Lincoln Town Car Signature? It has to warm-up to be able to be driven.?

It will stutter at full throttle and has to be cranked several times to start. If you try to drive it before it is warmed up it will stutter and move slowly. It is not empty of gasoline. I have changed almost everything. I have put a new fuel filter and fuel pump. I have changed the engine oil and filter. I have changed the coil pack, the spark plugs, and the wires. I have also changed the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) value and the PCM (Powertrain Control Module).|||You should have ask this long time before you started to put all those components in. If it has to be warmed up before you drive, either the injectors are messed up or your torque converter is in Lockup for some reason, so its acting like the car is in 4th gear and when you step on it, its just flooding the engine out and then you get a stutter. So Im guess if your in park or neutral the engine revs just fine. Also you could have a timing problem but I would think so then it would either smoke or get a little warm you might smell fuel. Might want to get see if your getting a check engine light or just run down to the parts store and see if they will read your car and if it has any transmission codes

PO402 Fault Code for a 98 Camaro?

My "service engine soon" alert keeps coming up on my dashboard and when I have a Diagnostic done to it it comes up with a PO402 Fault Code? What is this fault code? I "googled" the Fault code and it said P0402....Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected. Where is this EGR in a 98 Camaro, what happens if I do not get the EGR replaced soon? What other things can this be other than the EGR? Thanks for helping!


Jason|||it should be located on top of the intake. it will not run right and use alot of gas, if you dont get it fixed.

Computer codes?? Mechanical Help?

hello i have a 2003 GS Eclipse 2.4 4cyl and my check engine light is on also a day ago it started acting up like when i am at the light it sounds like its about to die but when i drive it i works fine so i scaned it with my scan tool and it gave me 5 codes and i dont know what does it mean..these are the codes..


P0102 mass or volume air flow circuit low input.


P0172 System to Rich Bank 1


P0455 Evap Porative Emission System leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)


P0421 warm up catalyst efficiency below Threshold (bank 1)


P0401 Exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected


ok those are the code and this is what i did i changed my wires spark plug 02 sensors both of them bank 1 bank 2.. I also have a intake and headers also a cat back exhaust my down pipe is stock tho. the problem that i had a month ago was my carburetor was dirty so i bought the spray and sprayed it in and it was fine until two days ago..


Sooooooo if anyone has any idea whats goin on or what i can do PLEASE let me know as soon as possible THANK you|||yes you shorted out the mass air Sense,you can not spray anything on the mass air Sense.this will send the wrong readings to the computer.

1999 Ford Taurus will not pass inspection. Please help?

I am trying to get my car to pass emissions and the check engine light keeps coming on. It was on when I had taken it in for inspection. I had previously been told I needed to replace my gas cap, did that but never had the service engine light reset. So they couldn't pass it because the service engine light was on. The code was P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected.


I was told I needed to replace my ERG valve. I did that, the service engine light came back on. Now they tell me something else must be wrong and that they can't pass it for emissions as long as the light is on. Does anyone know what else I can do, I'm really, really broke and need help please..|||A common problem is the EGR pressure feedback sensor. If the EGR tubes are clear, then replace this sensor. I had to replace this on my '96 Taurus. They run about $60 and are easy to change yourself.



Removing the check engine light bulb will not help. They plug into the OBD-II port and it tells them what codes are active. Also, resetting it just before going in won't help either because the drive monitors won't have completed. You need at least a drive and an overnight cool-down before the emission monitors will be ready, after resetting the computer.|||Get the car scanned again, to find out what is wrong. Work out a payment plan with your mechanic, ask him to put a "mechanics lien" on the title, which clears once you finish paying him/her.|||just remove bulb|||A most common problem on most domestic is a loosen or bad gas cap. Most of the times all what you have to do is to loosen that and fasten it again. On general, when you have OBD codes, you must repair the stuff as you did corresponding to each proper code displayed. This is what you have to do after you done with the repairs. You must plug an OBD code scanner and clear the codes for the items that you corrected or disconnect the battery positive lead if you do not have the OBD scanner. Now, here's what most people don't know...! Every time you clear one or more codes either using an OBM scanner or disconnecting the battery, the emission monitors will go to a non ready status and this will prevent the vehicle to pass inspection regardless that all codes are cleared. If you did the repairs right all what you have to do is to drive the vehicle few days that will include normal drive, stops and catalytic cool downs. This is done to give ECM (emission-computer-monitors) to learn that these items are fine and the eventually ECMs will return to normal status. I will recommend to you to connect the vehicle then to an OBM scanner before inspection to see if all these items are clear. Most auto parts will allow you to use a scanner free of charge either on their parking lot or your home as long as you show them an ID. It's easy to use, just answer the displayed question or ask the auto part guy to walk you thru. NOTE: Most states inspection will allow one or two active ECMs to pass inspection, ask your inspection shop on your area. I fix my own vehicles and I went thru your same situation few times so I decided that it was a good investment buying myself an OBM scanner. If you have Harbor Freight stores on your area, they sell them on sale for a very reasonable price. I will recommend to you to buy one, Prices for a good one range from $50.00 to $125.00 depending of the quality and and capabilities of the instrument. Good luck...!

1999 nissan maxima problems.....?

I'm having issues with my 4th generation nissan maxima... Ok i changed my spark plugs ,air filter,pvc valve, also I put sea foam in through the vacuum line , oil crank, and gas tank... Changed my oil also hoping this will clear my service engine soon amber light.. after all this I go to auto zone parts store asked a manager to scan for this issue...the guy gives me 4 codes with possible or accurate issues... Code P0138 (O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)...CODE P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction.....CODE P0325 -Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction.........CODE P0139-Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2).... OK HE ALSO TELL ME TO CHECK THIS OUT WITH A SHOP FOR VERIFICATION... Im not sure about the accuracy of the scanner... All i know that the car does shakes at high speeds up between 65-80 mph.... At a stop while the car is still in drive it atttemps to jerk a bit while still holding the brakes ... This is about it.. may some can can give me some insight about these issues.. thanks in advance.. i truly beleive that no answer is a wrong answer otherwise i wouldnot ask for help if i already knew how to solve the problem..|||MIL light indicates a problem with the air pollution control system in your engine. With computer controlled engines (since 1996) you can't just guess as to the cause. A code reader will just point you in a direction that may or may not be correct as systems are just too complex. what you need is a mechanic with a scan tool to read computer inputs to see which are not reading correctly. After testing a mechanic should be able to diagnose the problem and recommend a solution. I would least have diagnostic tests done then decide what to do.

Ford ranger check engine code P0401 help?

3.0L flex fuel engine. I know this code is an insufficient EGR flow or Exhaust Gas recirculation insufficient but this is the 3rd time this has happened. The first time i replaced the egr and the egr vaccum and that did not fix it then i replaced the DPFE sensor and that fixed it for about 8 months then the check engine light came back on put another new DPFE sensor on it and cleaned hoses and metal that comes out of manifold that fixed it again for about a year now light is back on and same code is there what do i do now? I really wanna be ablw to fix it myself cause its the only thing i have to drive. I can tell this is going to happen before the light comes on cause when you are driving down the road at a steady speed it does it jerking like and it only get worse until you put a new DPFE sensor on it. Any help??|||Unfortunately, the DPFE sensor is the problem. I have one on my car and every year or so, it melts down. Because I'm a mechanic, I just go to the wreckers and pick two or three for replacement purposes. The one thing I did not figure out with my 3.0L was if any thing else was causing the DPFE to burn out (it literally does, uncontrolled exhaust gas going through a sensor). The last one I put in has lasted for over two years, and this was a used sensor!


I forgot to add Dual Pressure Feedback EGR is what that nightmare is called.|||My guess is it is a high mileage vehicle, or at least prone to use a little oil. I think that the DP FE sensor lines are getting clogged. try cleaning them out with some carb cleaner or pushing a fine wire through the small metal tubes to clean them. After that you may want to try stopping the oil burning.

Mk6 2003 Ford Transit - van wont rev over 1000rpm and smokes?

Basically my van is a 350 90ps 2003. Its been running and driving fine without any issues until now...





I went to start it the other day and found that it would start perfectly fine, but when you went to hit the accelerator pedal it would sort of hit 1000rpm and just stop dead. The revs would sometimes fluctuate as if it was struggling to keep the revs at 1000 but not dropping below 850rpm then suddenly going back to 1000rpm.





I also noticed a load of smoke pouring out the back which settled down when the van wasnt revved but as soon as the pedal was pressed it would smoke. Its a sort of whiteish colour and smells so not water vapour.





I had the van diagnosed on a scanner and the fault codes I had were the following...





P0404 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation circuit range or performance


P1665 - Injection Pump Control Module Communication





I have since removed the EGR valve and cleaned it out with some EGR cleaner, I also cleaned out in the inlet manifold which did contain some crap but not a great deal to be honest. I then blanked the EGR off and reinstalled it and plugged it in.





It started fine as always but still wont rev over 1000 rpm. Its also literally putting out tons of white / grey smoke as soon as you hit the revs.





I did notice that it put on a camshaft or crankshaft sensor fault code as well but I wasnt sure if I might have disturbed a wiring plug for this sensor whilst taking the inlet manifold off as this wasnt shown when I last ran a diagnostic on it? Is the wiring plug for one of these sensors in this area?





Would one of the above sensors being faulty cause the van to find it hard to rev, etc?





Thanks





Phil|||Right phil


your on the right tracks the EGR valve motor sticks on these .we replace at least 2 a day


dont bother trying to clean it out as it does not work as you have found out


fault code P0404 usualy means the motor has siezed





replace the EGR





get the fault codes cleared





give the van a good run

Check engine light on after repair but not before.?

I have a 2001 buck century, the intake manifold gasket went and I had it replaced. When I gave the car to the shop the "check engine"light was NOT on. The shop did a fine job repairing the intake gasket, however, when I picked up the car it was. I brought it up to the mechanic, who told me to come back in a week if it stayed on. It did. I went back and he told me it was some unrelated malfunction with the fuel gauge (this gauge is broke and the code is in the cars computer). The problem is there is also another code that is preventing the car from passing DEQ. It is called an "exhaust gas recirculation valve" EGR. I had it checked out by a Buick dealer I trust, they say, that the valve works but a wire between it and the power source is broken.





My question at long last is: Should I make the original shop fix it? Or, should I just eat the 200 or so bucks it will cost to have fixed right? Or, have the dealership fix it and bill the other shop?|||The EGR valve has to be removed to get the intake off to replace the gasket. The original shop broke it. Have them fix it.|||Sounds like they broke the wire while they were changing the intake manifold gasket





NO DOUBT|||It wouldn't be uncommon for a wire or connector pin to be damaged when disassembling the top of the engine. That being said, I believe it is the original repair facility's responsibility to repair the damaged wire - it shouldn't be all that difficult to pin point the open circuit.|||Sounds like it must have been broken when they were working on it. Some mechanics are really careless when taking things apart and sometimes it just happens no matter how carefull you are. If they really care about their customers they will fix it.|||I've had mechanics that worked for me that have left things unplugged after intake repairs. The original shop should fix it if they are a reputable shop!





Good Luck!





http://waz-stuff.blogspot.com/

AUDI A3 FSI NOT STARTING! FAULT CODES ON DIAGNOSTIC, CONFUSED?? PLEASE HELP!?

HI JUST BOUGHT AN AUDI A3 FSI 2LITRE


Was not starting I bought as it was, however AA came and strrted it and due to a flat battery a booster was required and was fine, towed me home because i didnt want to risk driving it, started up next morning fine, running really rough, i called up aa again they took me to the garage





at the garage i said i would like to have the car serviced, mechanic explained that the car started fine and drove "wicked" no noises no shakes nothing.....


next day i call him up to see if its ready, bad news - the car wont start again!





he checked filters for dirtyness, clogs etc and nothing, sprayed easy start, plugs ok, fuel pump ok





i showed him that the fuse relay main relay had been wired and bypassed and thats when he pointed me to an electrician over at the next garage





came back to me with the following faults


EGR VALVE


CRANKSHAFT SENSOR


CAMSHAFT SENSOR (camshaft adjustment N205) short to ground, fault 17935 p1527 bank 1


fuel pressure regulator valve


ecm pcm power relay control circuit =%26gt;-J271:open circuit


exhaust gas recirculation





THE LIST GOES ON AND ON 14 FAULTS





HOWEVER THE AA CAME BACK THE NEXT DAY AND GAVE ME ONLY 7 CODES, with the crankshaft sensor at the top





THE CAR WILL NOT START RIGHT NOW JUST TURNS NO SPARK





I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as I am really confused and realistically what I need doing MAINLY in order to get this car started, the mechanic and aa recommended crankshaft sensor first and the other mechanic is saying the main relay...





Really confused, any suggestions I would be very very greatful





AA are towing the car back to me now as we speak just waiting for it!!





Thank you in advance|||You might getaway without doing the EGR but anything else on the list could either stop it running at all or force it into limp home mode so if I were you I would get the lot done|||I don't know what year your car is but your cam follower for the high presure fuel pump may have worn throu. If that happens it will cause damage to the cam and fuel cuts which could explain the trouble starting. But first try resetting the ecu that usually fixes electronic problems.

1999 GMC Jimmy has weak acceleration and jumping rpm's at 30-40 mph. Help!!!?

It's a 4.3 L V6 SLE. My father and I just finished replacing the EGR valve but it doesnt seem to have helped. The acceleration was still very weak and the rpm's will randomly bounce at 30-40 mph when I am trying to get to 55 mph. Our neighbor's computer gave us a P0404 OBD code, which means (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cicuit Range/Performance.) I just dropped 150$ on a new valve and the problem is still there. Any ideas? I'm not very good with cars but I really can't afford to bring it to the shop. Thank you. -Dan|||Its a shot in the dark without actually driving the vehicle, but it sounds like an exhaust restriction (Catalytic converters plugged)





A quick way to find out would be to loosen the Y-Pipe at both manifolds and test drive it (not to long, just to see if its gone)





Although loud it will tell you if a restriction is the problem.|||thank you so much! The Cataytic converter was plugged just like you suggested, so we took it off and went for a ride. All the power was back so we knew that was the issue. After a few calls we found a place that stocked the converter i needed. I got my money back for the EGR valve and it runs great

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|||sounds like maybe the fuel pump. if you can get your hands on a fuel pressure tester, vortecs have to have 65 psi, if not replace it. these vehicles are notorious for failed pumps. if its bad, please buy a delphi or ac delco and replace the filter. DO NOT use an autozone part. you get what you pay for.

Can someone help with 1997 Plymouth Neon Diagnostic readout!!?

Just yesterday my service engine soon light came on in my 1997 Plymouth Neon Expresso. So just today I ran up to autozone where my friend works and had him hook it up to a diagnostic machine to get a diagnosis. The Following is exactly what the diagnosis says...





Troubleshooting P0401


OEM Brand: Domestic





Definition:





EGR system fault (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)





Explanation:





The ECM has detected too little flow on the EGR system.





Probable Causes:





1- Blocked passage on EGR system


2- Failed EGR valve


3- EGR solenoid faulty


4- Failed EGR pressure sensor where applicable


5- Failed EGR position sensore where applicable





Before I ask any questions. Just know that with all honesty I see/hear no difference in my cars performance, whether i'm going city/highway speeds, or idleing. I'm a college student and I have a fulltime job so I need to know exactly what i'm looking at in price range for part/labor.





So heres my questions:





1. What would be your guess as to what exactly is wrong?


2. What is the best way to go about fixing it?


3. What is the average price for the part/parts I'd need?


4. How much labor does it require/ what will labor costs be?


5. Could I possibly do the job myself?


6. Is it ok to drive this car to class/work in the meantime?


7. Will driving it cause any harmful damage to my car?





I thank any/all readers for their feedback, especially those qualified mechanics, thanks.|||The E.G.R. selenoid is bad. it is attached to the E.G.R. valve by a hose on the drivers side of the head. Chrysler does not sell it separately. It is sold as part of the E.G.R. assembly.

Renault Clio 1.5 dCi toxic fume warning light?

I have a 2003 renault clio dynamique 1.5dCi 80hp. To cut a long long story short, I have an ongoing problem with the car. The problem description is as follows: intermittently, normally when accelerating, the car loses power and struggles to maintain speed. This is normally accompanied shortly after by the toxic fume warning light coming on on the dashboard. The car has been in several renault dealers (Paisley, Manchester and Stockport), all of whom have been able to temporarily fix the issue, but it always returns within a few months. I believe the cause of the problem is an inherrent fault with the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve (which has been replaced several times already). I have already spent a small fortune on servicing and parts - has anyone else seen the same problem, and managed to find a permanent fix?|||I have a problem with my EGR on my 1.5 Clio but it is not as severe as yours. From reading up on it, the EGR is a common problem and will go faulty again even if replaced. Quite a few people recommend blanking off the EGR valve but I'm not sure how this is done and you may have to have your ECU reprogrammed.

2001 Lumina Check Engine Light On - Code P0405?

The check engine light came on on my wife's 2001 Lumina. It has the 3.1 V6 engine.





On the advice of a friend she took it to Auto Zone for a free diagnostic check. The error code retrieved from the check is: DTC P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage.





Will changing the EGR valve fix this? What other causes could there be?





Serious answers please. We live on a fixed income. That means we have to live on what we have left after we: Fix the car, Fix the Washing Machine, Fix the Lawn Mower, etc.|||The EGR valve is expensive and probably only needs to have the carbon cleaned from the valve seat. I just did a 99 Grand Prix with a similar error code by simply removing the valve and cleaning it, then re-installing with a new gasket. You can easily check and clean any carbon blockage in the EGR passage ways leading to the intake manifold at the same time. It's not a critical condition and you can take your time getting it fixed. However if you ever encounter a yellow check engine light that flashes every second or so, you need to get it fixed ASAP.


http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/checken鈥?/a>





http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/myt鈥?/a>





http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorO鈥?/a>|||usally replacing it will be the end result, circuit voltage low means faulty internally or if your lucky bad connection. Try just pull off the elect connector and clean it, try to use something with non residue when dry. recommend when refitting the connector put it on / off a few times so that the terminals scratch up a bit causing a better connection. see how you go.|||Yes changing the EGR valve will fix it; I had the same problem with my 2000 impala with a 3.8 engine. If you don't have the money to fix it now you can wait till you do; but your fuel economy will suck.

2000 Honda Accord - 4cl - LX - Emmisions / EGR issues?

Ok, so a couple weeks ago, my check engine light comes on and I get codes ran -


car was dying when I slowed down / applying clutch / brakes - basically crapped out at idle.





p0300-304 - Misfire Detected in Cylinder





%26amp;





p1491 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Insufficient Lift





I replace the plugs, knowing there was most likely a bigger issue. No good. Did some research and everything pointed to EGR valve - popped the hood - EGR was unplugged by last owner! Plugged it in and car runs good for a day and starts the same issues again - I alternate plugging and unplugging EGR for a few days - same thing - runs good for a day and then back to the same thing.





So, I replace the EGR valve today - brand new - runs great, engine light goes away - 2 hours later, same deal!!!





Before I replace anything else, I would like to get some advice - thanks.|||Def the coil packs or distributor causing misfiring and loading the cylinders full. Ecu errors should read multiple cylinder misfire, cylinder x misfire, all kinds of junk. New distributor/coils with an ecu reset|||It could be the Misfire and too much fuel is not burn, so the problem come back. The spark distributor is easy to replace. some time the spark plug wires needs to replace when getting old.


can you check the code again?

I should have explained how i was cheated; and here is the story.?

I hope someone out there can help me with this problem. I hope some one would tell me what are the legal steps I can take to solve this, and maybe put an end to this game that most auto repair shop are playing to get more money out of our pocket.


It started like this; I took my car for inspection and I was told because the engine light is on can’t pass the test and they have to run diagnostics test and the charge for that would be $89.00, I told them this test was done and I was told it is the EGR( exhaust gas recirculation) system, and they told me that is not good, they have to do the test so they can pin point the problem and find the actual part that is not working and change that, not keep changing part until they get to bad one, we have to do the test our self. So they charged me for the inspection and told me you have fifteen days to solve the problem and bring it back for the inspection other wise you have to pay for the inspection again.


First of all if you want to do the repair and your are calling yourself specialist you must be able to find the defective part and replace it, and when you are charging people for labor what is the meaning of this diagnostics charge, isn’t this just another excuse to get more money from people? And when you did not do anything why did you charge me for the inspection?


I tried to solve the problem, I took my car to other places and I was told the problem is the EGR (code 401), so I bought the valve and I changed it, and it took me 15 minutes to change it for which some places were going to charge me 3 hours of labor to change it and after driving the car for 10 miles the engine light came back on and since I was not able to solve the problem I had no choice but to take the car to the same place before I lose that inspection and I did that and asked them to do what ever needed to be done so I can have my inspection. And I told them I have changed the EGR valve.


After about half an hour they told me;” the problem was the TRANSDUCER” and because I, never in the past have heard that word and never even seen that word in the TOYOTA book, I thought it’s better if I don’t say any thing. So I asked them how much this is going to cost? I was told “part and labor is going to be $ 229.00 and I said it is OK. And I went home.


After few hours I called them to see what happened to my car and they told me they changed the part and took the car out for the road test and after some driving the ENG light came back on and they had to look for the problem. And there is another part that they have to change!!! So what happened to pin pointing the problem?


To make the long story short; they called me after five pm and told me since they are going to be closed soon they can deliver my car and they asked for my credit card number they told me every thing is ok and they are going to run another test and put the sticker on my car and bring it to me.


They did that and they gave me the bill for $ 335.79. It was almost 6 pm on Saturday, Sep,28,08 or even later that they brought my car and their shop was closed and Sunday they are also closed, so I called them very early Monday morning and ask them to leave all the parts that they changed on my car, because I would like to pick those parts, immediately I have received this respond; “we do not keep the parts and we dumped them, I told them please get them out of the trash can even if you did so, I would like to have those parts back, I was told we will check.


After some time I have received a call and was informed that they do not have the parts, because the trash truck was there on Monday morning and pick them up and they are gone.


Believe me, I knew they are lying, and did not give up, by calling them and talking, and trying to reason with them, they come up with this story; we have find one of the parts it was under the table, but we can not find the other one, (this is the one that I told them it was working and you should not have changed that). At this time they offer me, “the best we can do for you is giving you $40.00 back”. I told him thank you and hang up.


I was not about to give up, I called the corporate office of that business and talk to a gentleman who I was told is in charge and will take care of this problem; I should mention that now it is almost 20 days past, and the gentleman told me, he is going to talk to the mechanic and people in that location and get back to me, and after few hours and couple of times calling me and asking question, he finally called me and said.


“I asked the mechanic who worked on your car to go and look for those parts and they find your parts you can pick them up. Now I have the parts but I am sure the part is not going to work this part was check at other place and it was OK I am positive that they have tampered with this part before they give it back to me to save themselves, so I hope some one can help me and guide me so maybe I can put an end to this non since that repair s|||I don’t have the answer to all of your questions. However, there are some things that you CAN do to repair your credit. In fact, sometimes you can indeed get negative items removed; depending on the situation. This might be a good place to start.





I recommend trying the free course at http://www.redfoxcredit.com/repair.php They provide a lot of great information for improving your credit score, and it worked well for me.


|||That is not a short story. I didn't even bother reading it.|||lol can i hand this in and tell my teacher its my english essay?|||I worked at a dealership as a Auto Tech for years. With that said there are some diagnose issues that are very difficult..where isolating the problem sometimes will take replacing the most common issue because there is no other way to diagnose it from another problem. They may have made one mistake which you can ***** about but sometimes that's how it is. If you don't believe me ask a Dr. when they are trying to diagnose something, they will give you a certain medication for a couple of weeks and if that doesn't work they will try something else and they are making 4 times as much as the mechanic. Yet the Dr. will charge you for the cost of the first appointment and you had to pay the first medication. Same deal sorry.|||State inspection fee is due pass or fail, state law. Once the inspection is started it cannot be aborted in order to avoid the test fee.





Most shops will not accept someone else's diagnosis just for the reason you stated, you had a EGR code, you changed that part and it did not solve the problem.





Was the EGR part a genuine Toyota part? If not then that part could still not work correctly. Did the shop miss the diagnosis also? Sounds like it. Did they fix the check engine light one way or another at very little extra cost? Yes, they did.





What are you entitled too? The difference between the original quote of $229.00 and the final bill of $335.00 would be fair. Expecting your old parts back would be fair also and more the norm in automotive rather than the exception.


If the car is fixed and has a sticker I would not be too concerned about the old parts though unless the egr valve was one of the replaced parts and you want you money back from the parts store.





Good luck||| if you have an auto zone store they will read the trouble codes for you for nothing and then you can change the defective part and then have them read for codes to see if there is any other code that comes up. free I would cal your states auto inspection unit and file a complaint in writing after you talk on the phone or email and tell them exactly what happened , They don't take kindly to inspection stations ripping people off. they license those places and can do grave damage to them.|||Yours is a long story that I've heard before. Listen closely! As with check engine light the best place to go for the correct code is the dealer of your car. No if's and's or but's. When ever you take your car for an inspection and you know something isn't right why trust Joe sh*t the rag man with a diagnosis.





When faced with problems like this, get it fixed by a registered dealer before it's inspection time. Remember this as a lesson, Joe the rag man will keep feeding it parts till he finally hits the right one. You are still faced with another inspection because it never passed in the first place. IT'S THE LAW DUDE!

Please help me start looking in the right area....?

1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.8L FWD:





I installed a new battery over a month ago and put on 3000 miles, but I have these OBDII codes that won't let me pass smog. everything passes.





OBDII Failing Monitors:


Catalyst (not ready)


Evaporative System (not ready)


Oxygen Heater Sensor (not ready)


Exhaust Gas Recirculation System (not ready)





MIL code(ignition light diagnostic):


12 = Battery disconnected within the last 50 key-cycles


55 = completed test|||could be an egr prob|||Take it to Autozone or some car parts place that will throw it on the diagnostic computer for free. A new battery has nothing to do with not passing smog.





You have a bad sensor and running the diagnostic will tell you which sensors/switches need replacing.|||This is going to be a bit of a pain, but you need to restart the van repeatedly until the system resets.





After you start the van a few doxen more times, it shoud read ok!|||You are apparently not completing the required drive cycle required for the obd 2 test environments. try driving down the highway for 10 or 12 miles, then decelerate without using brake and do some city driving on the way back, and quit clearing the codes( if you are)|||these are not obd codes. get correct codes for obd you'll make repairs much easier|||I have no idea, but am really interested to see what actually works. Here's a star.

Please help troubleshoot my 2001 Ford Focus SOHC Check Engine Light Code p0401?

Please help troubleshoot my 2001 Ford Focus SOHC Check Engine Light Code p0401


--------------------------------------鈥?br>

~~~~ Please help me diagnose it cuz I don't have the funds to take it to the shop nor try trial %26amp; error of buying different parts, the egr system several parts. ~~~~





Yesterday it was stalling really bad and barely idled up to speed, nearly dying if I tried pressing firmly on the pedal %26amp; a few times died on me.





So Today I followed the egr hoses that travel from the DPFE sensor (EGR Valve Pressure Sensor) %26amp; they had splits in them where they mounted at the bottom to the metal piping, so I snipped off the bad hose %26amp; reconnected them %26amp; it seemed to help improve accelleration.





The car idles ok but after pressing the accelerator it hesitates than goes but slowly up to speed.





It seems to accelerate slightly better when cold, but after warmed up the hesitiation starts.


- ( I took it for a test drive and while the engine was still cool I floored it to test its accelleration %26amp; it was improved but on the way back the engine had warmed up %26amp; it was still having some hesitation issues.)





I just went onto an aftermarket website for sensors %26amp; put in the p0401 code and it says for Ford it means





"""Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) flow insufficient detected


鈥?The egr system is monitored during steady state of driving conditions while the egr is commanded on.





Probable Cause[s]





Open or short circuit condition


Poor electrical connection


EGR valve stuck closed, egr vacuum leaks, egr flow path restricted,


DPFE sensor hoses off or plugged or reversed


Damaged EGR orifice tube """|||EGR valve just opens under vacuum. You can shake it to see if it opens.

It usually makes a noise. No vacuum at the valve, which is a possible cause VPS



Possible you need to replace the dpfe sensor.



How much vacuum do you have at idle?



See technician corner. Google Ford focus P0401



http://www.obd-codes.com/p0401



The above has possible solutions.



Also found :



http://www.buckeyestangs.com/vb/showthre鈥?/a>|||1) you can't it needs diagnostic equipment. ( may be sticking due to carbon etc)

2) again diagnostics is best unless you want to strip it down? and do you know what to look for?

3) check all hoses and connections for blockages if in doubt remove blow through and visual or replace

4) again diagnostics is only real way here.

5) no idea.. I am assuming it is simply the tube connecting to exhaust etc

6) diagnostics can tell you. unless you are adapt with a wiring circuit and a multimeter and know what values to find?

6) it operates on transient throttle closing. it will monitor during normal running ( steady state)

by opening and allowing exhaust gasses to be recirculated back into combustion chamber to reduce noxious out put. as it dilutes incoming air Fuel charge it needs to be balanced etc.

PS : yes only operates when engine is Hot.

will not operate at idle. should.. only operate within set parameters at cruising ( not full throttle)

1999 Chevrolet Cavalier 99 2.2 cavalier fuel issue?

The vehicle sputters when accelerating, runs somewhat okay with little pressure on the accelerator and stalls in drive when stopped after the vehicle has been running for a while. The engine also has a lot of shake on it, all of which have worsened after changing the fuel pressure regulator, aside from the engine shake. The car computer also reads the exhaust gas recirculation sensor low, but doesn't have one on that model. The fuel pressure regulator looks to be operating normally, no leaks, good gaskets. Fuel filter is new as well. what could be the cause?|||Spark plugs, Injectors HT leads etc.|||i'd check your spark to make sure that's not the problem then firing order

96 dodge intrepid erratic idle?

i recently bought a 96 dodge intrepid pretty sound car besides the erratic idle. when i first start it, it will rev up to 2000 rpm and then it will bounce between 1300 and 2000 rpm and once it warms up it bounces between 1600 and 2000 rpm i have been told that it is usually one of two things or sometimes both, either it being the idle air control motor or the exhaust gas recirculation valve. knowing that we took it to the place that we bought it from and the mechanic there pulled the harness off the iac and said that it was that i am just sort of looking for a second opinion|||that's the two most common causes of it,if its the iac valve that may be able to be cleaned out,you might also want to have the computer scanned on it that might reveal something else that would be causing that too happen,a bad throttle position sensor will also cause the same thing too happen,good luck with it.|||your welcome,im glad it helped,good luck.

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Is there a way to turn off a service engine soon light.?

I recently got a new exhaust system and I had the guy cut off the catalytic converter and ever since then my service engine soon light comes on. So I read the trouble codes and it was 32 Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve. Is there something I can do to make it shut off but still come on and tell me when something else is wrong. Im not going to change the exhaust I like how it sounds and I wont put the catalytic converter back on. Just wanting to know if there is anything electrical I can do to make it shut off.|||wow, it is illegal to cut off the cat. bad move on your part. now that light will always be on and your car will not run properly as it is designed to run it's best with a cat and the moron who cut it off could also be in trouble for doing it, if he is a licensed mechanic he should know better.|||You're a giant scumbag dochenozzle!

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|||Dude, your are a moron, until you replace the converter your motor will run in full rich mode, the light will NEVER go out and you're burning up your valves %26amp; ruining your spark plugs.



Try looking at http://www.imaphucktard.com

How to turn off service engine soon light.?

I have an 89 Camaro and i recently put a new exhaust system on it. I cut off the catalytic converter and ran it to a flowmaster exhaust. Now whenever I drive it around after about 5 min the service engine soon light comes on. I read the trouble codes and it was code 32 which is. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR


Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve. I was just wondering if there is something I can do to get it to shut off, without putting the catalytic converter back on. I know its illegal so nobody has to tell me that, I tried posting this a week ago and everyone just told me how illegal it was and didn't answer my question.|||if its an 89 its an obd1 so you could probably just disconnect your battery for 10 mins and it should go off....but it might come back on again. but hey, its worth a try...|||The light is on because of the lack of a catalytic converter.





You can turn off the light by disconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes. However, if you don't fix the reason for the check engine light, in your case the lack of a catalytic converter, the light will only come back on again in a short time.





If you don't want to fix the cause of the check engine light either put a piece of black electrical tape over the light or remove the light bulb.

What is the point of Euro 6 technology?

Euro 5 technology introduced the use of add blue along with an SCR cat to reduce the production of NOx due to high combustion temperatures within the cylinder.The urea reacts with the catalyst to break the gas down into Nitrogen and water.But with Euro 6 spec exhaust gas recirculation is also tagged on which itself reduces combustion temperatures making the adblu cycle redundant as the NOx levels are already reduced before it even reaches the cat.OK the EGR only works on cruise and over run but the amount of weight,electrical loading and fuel consumption,never mind the cost of carting 50 litres of adblu about must outweigh any gain in lower emissions.Plus the cost to the environment of mining and refining the rare metals used to produce the cat itself.Is it to clean up exhaust gasses or just a way of making money via pointless and damaging EU regulation|||Sometimes we just have to trust that someone more knowledgeable than either you or I, has checked the actual figures out for all that and have found it beneficial to the environment.|||Yes in theory it works and helps the environment. In practice it will be an extra complication that will go wrong just in time to fail the MOT

Cleaning MAF?

My 99 A6 Avant 2.8 V6 gets sluggish occaionally and the shop tells me the MAF and sensor get dirty. Cleaning it and doing adaptation makes the car run great but I wonder if this is something i can do myself to avoid periodic shop costs.


Techcron and BG 44 are great for cleaning injectors but this is in the air flow sensor so any kind of gas treatment can't get to it. I belive it gets dirty because of exhaust gas recirculation, especially with short trips, low speed.





I've read about something called Seafoam, which you introduce into a vacuum hose. Will this work on my A6? What vacuum hose should I use?|||a mass airflow sensor (MAF) is a very sensitive electrical part. Exhaust gases do not effect it in any way. you can usually remove a MAF from the intake tube somewhere between the throttle body and the air filter. it will have a plug coming out of it and is usually the only thing in the intake tube with wires. be very gentile with it though and make sure to only pick it up from the connector. go to a parts store and buy CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner. it is very good and should help clean the MAF. it is sometime recommended to clean the MAF with every change of the air filter (also make sure to check your air filter to make sure it is clean). spray the MAF down and allow it to dry.|||Maybe your air filter is dirty... get a new one and see if that helps|||No!Dont use anything on the maf sensor besides maf sensor cleaner.You can find it at autoparts stores.You dont want any kind of residue left on the sensor,so use the proper cleaner.I personally think seafoam does more harm then good on a newer car,but hey to each his own.Oh and dont use seafoam on the maf sensor.

Is my car suffering from a faulty EGR, ECT, or Cam sensor?

I ask because I got a diagnostic for my car because it turns off at random stop signs and stop lights, and the diagnostic told me I had faulty EGR, Cam, and ECT sensors.





I know that EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation, and its main purpose is to reroute exhaust gas so that the temperatures in the car won't be so high. I know that Cam is short for Camshaft sensor that that is to tell the computer the position of the cam so it can properly give fuel infections, and the ECT is short for Engine coolant temperature, which tells the car when its too hot for operation.





My question is, if my car turns off after awhile of driving when I come to a stop and will only stay on as long as I keep applying gas, which of these sensors are most crucial to get? IT would be very expensive to buy all of them but I will if I have to.|||Change the ECT, aka coolant temp sensor, depending on what make your car is it controls the fan. Afterwards have the codes cleared and drive the car about 75 miles and recheck the codes. The ECT controls the temp gauge on some cars, others have a seperate sending unit for it.

What do these OBD 2 code mean, P0705 and P0403?

P0403....Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit


P0705....Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)





Would this cost alot to get fixed? What do they mean...





And I want to know if my having trouble starting up my car at the gas pump has anything to do with these two. And its only at the pump after putting gas in it... I usually have to rev up the engine to keep it going then drive off. THEN ITS FINE, no issues after that.|||Exhaust gas recirculation is known as EGR and it recycles some of the exhaust gases back into the intake to be mixed in with the air/fuel mixture to be re-burnt which lowers emissions. They are electronic valves that are opened by the ECM/ECU by either an electromagnet solenoid or by a vacuum control valve. The most likely cause is just carbon built up inside the EGR passage. Occasionally, a piece of this carbon can break off and get lodged under the valve, holding it open causing a lean condition. If you get gas at a location just off a highway, I would say, yes, the EGR is most likely the problem. The reason for this diagnoses is because the EGR only operates at highway speeds and as you slow down to pull in for gas, you really don't notice a problem because the vehicle is decelerating. You shot off the vehicle, pump gas, and go to restart it, but this chunk of carbon is causing the engine to lean misfire. When you rev the engine it can sometimes vibrate the chunk loose and the valve closes.


As for the trans. range sensor malfunction it could be the cold weather or a shift indicator sensor is bad. This is the vehicle shift indicator which tells you if the vehicle is in Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, or Low. Check to make sure the shift indicator light is working. If I remember right, a burnt indicator bulb could cause that code to be set.


Hope this helps and good luck. Christopher

Thursday, November 24, 2011

96 saturn sl1 EGR Valve...?

i have been told that a bad EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation valve) could cause a car to buck or hesitate in mid range speed at low rpms, thats what my car is doing. i work at autozone and i used our code reader and there was a code that stated "EGR flow malfunction" anyone else have this problem ever? please help me! i dont wanna spend the $120 if i dont need to!|||There is a device called the transducer that connects to the EGR system via vac lines that doe's have a electronic plug on it that could show up under codes as if the EGR valve is faulty but isn't.If the EGR valve has a electronic plug on it then it could be that it's faulty.





Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I ran into that same problem and it was the transducer.Keep in mind that at the big do it yourself auto wreckers you should be able to find several of either of those parts.|||No problem my friend.

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|||Since you work at auto-zone why don't you get yourself a Haynes repair manual. I would say the egr is probably bad but the book will show you how to test the egr to make sure it's bad. It also has a lot of good trouble shooting information.|||If an egr valve opens too soon you will have a hesitation problem. Bad egr's do not cause problems with drive-ability at cruising speed. It sounds like your egr is faulty. |||i had one go bad on my 95 saturn, it sometimes ran rough at a steady speed and stalled at stoplights

2000 mitsubishi eclipse EGR replacement.?

I have a Mitsubishi Eclipse and I want to replace the exhaust gas recirculation valve. My problem lies in that I bought a new valve from auto zone that has two extra tubes coming out of the side. I checked and it is supposed to fit my car (2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS) its just the one in my car at the moment does not have these tubes so I do not know what to do about them.|||take the one off your car and take the new one back and exchange for one that matches your vehicle.

Code P0401 vehicle: ford Taurus 3.0 liter flex fuel?

its my baby. i was driving it the other day the light came on (service engine soon). i went to checker got it checked out. this came up. please let me know what it could be? and what the solutions are please its my baby. thank you fellow yahoo peeps "P0401 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION FLOW INSUFFICIENT DETECTED" that was the message|||egr valve is not working or egr ports are pluged with carbon you would need to bring it to a shop for further diag.|||check to make sure egr valve is operating properly

1995 Ford Ranger???

I have a tester for the check enginbe light and it say 'exhaust gas recirculation flow insufeccient. What does that mean??|||If when you replace the egr make sure you clean the hole where the EGR goes get all the smut out that you can use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the deb-ere, Second you might have a bad DPFE, it works with the EGR clean all hoses surrounding EGR. hope this helps,|||This is known as an EGR problem in the gearhead world. MOst likely you will need a new EGR valve. Ive worked at autozone and i just checked their database. youre lookin at about 50-100 bucks. depending on your engine type.|||EGR valve


PVC valve





both common problems for the Ranger|||your DPFE SENSOR is probly bad , does it sound like a exhaust leak under the hood , it is a small sensor with two hoses on it . it plugs and blows the exhaust hose of , it is about $75

Any Mechanics Out There?

I asked this question before, but I didn't have all the details at the time. I took my 2001 Ford Focus for the emission test today and it failed. Here is the report I received: P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected.





Secondary Air System (not supported)


Heated Catalyst (not supported)


-- Engine light was on for the past several months.





Q: Would anyone have any idea how much this will cost me?





thank you again!!|||Dont listen to EITHER of those hackers who posted before me.TAKE IT TO THE DEALER.You egr valve apears to be functioning improperly.Hovere by simply replacing this EGR valve your not gauranteed to fix it...you need to go to the dealer.what they will then do is test the valve with a vacuum pump.by aplying vacuum they can see if the valve is able to aply.if the engine stalls at idle when the valve is under vacuum the valve is good and the problem lies elsewhere.DONT EVER REPLACE PARTS BECAUSE THE CODE SAYS THATS WHAT IT IS!!!THE COMPUTER DOESNT KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE PART ITSELF AND THE CAUSE.ITS ONLY AN IDEA!!|||your EGR valve is not working. the not supported means it does not apply to your car. the only fault is the EGR valve issue and that would definitely cause a check engine light. take it to Autozone and they can run the codes and show you were the EGR valve is located so you can replace it. good luck|||possible oxygen sensor is faulty, replacement maybe 1-2 hundred dollars australian. take car to a mechanic and get a free quote.|||sounds like egr problems. which take exhaust gases and recirculates it through the engine. the "code would most likely be a P0401. and autozone will tell you they cant do anything. not certain on price.

Code P0401 vehicle: ford Taurus 3.0 liter flex fuel?

its my baby. i was driving it the other day the light came on (service engine soon). i went to checker got it checked out. this came up. please let me know what it could be? and what the solutions are please its my baby. thank you fellow yahoo peeps "P0401 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION FLOW INSUFFICIENT DETECTED" that was the message|||you need a new egr valve most likely have the person who checked it erase the code and see if it comes back the same code my truck had the same code I erased the code and its hasn't came back since

Random/multiple cylinder misfire probable causes?

2000 Chevy Blazer 4wd 4.3L v6


My check engine light is on and i had a guy at work pull the codes and there were


egr stuck open


multiple/random cylinder misfire


and exhaust recirculation gases.


im hear that the erg can cause multiple misfire, but also a fuel pump, my gas gauge also wont go below half tank. any thoughts?|||Look for a vacuum leak. Look on the back of the flex tube that goes to the throttle body and make sure that the big vacuum hose is plugged in to it. It comes off real easy when you change your air filter and if you arent looking for it, you wont know its there.

How to fix code p0401 acura cl?

code p0401 Exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected.


vehicle: 1997 acura cl 2.2|||Pretty obvious there's either lots of dirt or some other flow restriction, so a good cleaning is in order.


Take the EGR valve apart and clean or if not familiar with it, the job is not too expensive to have done.|||Clean up the inside of the EGR valve and don't forget to clean the ports in the intake manifold that the EGR connects to. Sometime, well most times, you have to chip out the carbon build with a screwdriver and hammere. Make sure you check the functioning of the valve by putting a vacuum on it.|||First step is take out the exhaust gas recirculation valve and have a look,they're usually coked up with crud,sometimes they'll clean up,lot of times not.|||Replace your EGR Valve and then disconnect the battery, step on the brakes to bleed off all the power, then reconnect the battery. Start the car, drive around to make sure the CEL doesn't come on.

Links for EGR in diesel engine ??

Please give me some links to read / learn about the basic concepts of Exhaust Gas Recirculation in Diesel engines. Any links which will explain the components and working priciple will also be helpful.|||Look at this link.


There are not many engine manufacturers going for this option to reduce NOx emissions as the simpler way is to adjust the camshaft timing, injection timing using VIT or to use an ammonia scrubber on the exhaust gas side after the turbocharger.


Look at the MAN B %26amp; W or Wartsila websites to see what they do.

VW Polo 1.4 (2003) EGR valve?

The emission warning light (pic of engine) has come on, gone off and now on again. Has been electronically diagnosed as the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Can anyone tell me where this is sited in my engine please so we can remove it and clean it as recommended.|||1.


Step 1





Disconnect the car battery. Locate the EGR valve. You may need to refer to the owner's manual.


2.


Step 2





Unhook the air supply hose, vacuum hose and all electrical connections. You may need the screwdriver for this.


3.


Step 3





Remove the EGR mounting bolts with the socket wrench.


4.


Step 4





Unbolt the EGR valve from the EGR tube with the wrench. Use a wide-mouthed wrench, which works best for this.


5.


Step 5





Look at the EGR valve. If there are holes in the valve, it definitely needs to be replaced. If there are no holes, you may opt to clean it by spraying a half can of carburetor cleaner into the valve. Let it sit, then use a gasket scraper, putty knife, small drill bit or long wood screw to scrape out the buildup in the valve.


6.


Step 6





Install a new gasket and EGR valve if a total replacement is due. Attach all hoses, wiring and bolts that were previously removed.


7.


Step 7





Reconnect the battery and test drive the car.


also you can go to http://www.know-car.com/index.php/catego鈥?/a> for your questions|||It's located on the exhaust between the manifold and the first catalytic converter. But cleaning it is a waste of time, if you take it off you should replace it, unless you want to clean it again in 3 months, unless you're on a tight budget in which case I understand

1997 Toyota Camry CEL - OBDII Code P0401?

1997 Toyota Camry, 4Cyl, ATM, 120K+ miles





My Camry's CEL came on last week. I got a hold of a scanner and found OBDII code P0401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation - Insufficient Flow. Could this mean the valve is bad? How can I check for this? Thanks.|||You need to install an EGR VSV to cure the concern|||unplugg the egr see if rpms change,if so just replace it its a lot easier and less hassel by the way rpms will go higher use a vacume tool to check.i have replaced proably 30 of them on 95 98 camrys valves are doubtful depends on miles if u think valves are dirty just have them cleaned but do not use walnut shells if u need help doing this i will tell u later.unplug vacum hose at master cylinder while car is running with somebody inside operating the throttle nevermind ihave to go ask me later sorry|||its a know problem its going to be the rear charcole canister vsv,trust me this is it

MONDEO MK3 EGR VALVE PROBLem?

had a diagnostic check on my 2001 duratec mondeo petrol came up code p0400 egr exhaust gas recirculation malfunction?? do i need to replace the valve itself ? where is it located on the duratec engine? any help with this would be great car drives great though still|||If it is driving OK and not failing an MOT I would leave it alone. The EGR valve will not be on the engine but somewhere off it like low down at the front.|||the egr valves are a common problem they alway through up a fault


it should be down round the back of the engine i think on the mondeo


either pop it off and clean it out


only image i could find is of a diesle one


see below in the link





also you can buy blanking plates that cover up the egr





for a new egr you would be looking at 拢160-拢200 new|||On the duratec engine your egr solenoid is located underneath your coil pack (follow the ht leads from the plugs to locate the coil pack)As you look at the engine it is on the right hand side of the cylinder head. It is always best to replace this component then clear the fault codes using suitable diagnostic equipment, hope this helps|||Your EGR valve is fitted to your exhaust manifold,it may just need removing and cleaning

2000 Chevrolet Silverado?

2000 Chevy ext cab 4.8L v8I got the diagnostic tester thing and it gave me the code and the def. was Exhaust Gas Recirculation control ciruit range/ Performance. Does any one know what this means and how i fix it? please and thanks|||Your Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve is sticking. It needs to be replaced. They are pretty expensive. It is located on the right side (passenger side) of the engine toward the front. It is cylindrical in shape and has a connector at the top. Very easy to replace.|||it is a egr valve and you need a new one it is close to or in line of your exhaust held by 2 or3 bolts it not to hard to do

Ford check engine light?

2001 Ford F150 with 6cyl motor. code P0401 exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected- I am not a auto mechanic.Does anybody know what is wrong? Is it the EGR valve?Can I fix it myself with simple hand tools? Thank you for any help.|||PO401 : Insufficient EGR Flow





The Exhaust Gas Re circulation (EGR) system is designed to reintroduce exhaust gas into the combustion chambers, thereby lowering combustion temperatures and reducing the formation of Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx).





The amount of exhaust gas that is reintroduced into the combustion cycle is determined by several factors, such as: engine speed, engine vacuum, exhaust system back pressure, coolant temperature, throttle position. All EGR valves are vacuum operated. The EGR vacuum diagram for your particular vehicle is displayed on the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label.





The EGR system is Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) system, controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and composed of the following components: DPFE sensor (also referred to as the back pressure transducer), EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid, EGR valve, and assorted hoses. The P0401 code means that OBD detected an insufficient amount of EGR.





Symptoms


There may be drive-ability issues such as pinging ( pre-ignition knock , similar to cheap gas) when the vehicles engine is under heavy load or the vehicle is climbing a steep grade. There may also be other symptoms.





Causes


A code P0401 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:





鈥he DPF (differential pressure) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced


鈥here is a blockage in the EGR (most likely carbon buildup)


鈥he EGR valve is faulty


鈥he EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vacuum


Possible Solutions


In fixing this code, it is quite common for people to just replace the EGR valve only to have the OBD code return. The EGR valve is not always the cause. If you replace all 3 components the like is all but guaranteed to go away . Or you can test each component .





鈥se a vacuum pump and pull the EGR valve open while monitoring engine RPM's. There should be a noticeable difference in RPM's with the EGR open


鈥lean out the EGR valve to remove deposits


鈥eplace the DPF sensor


鈥eplace the EGR valve








COMPONENT TESTING


DPFE Sensor


1.Disconnect the pressure hoses at the DPFE sensor.


2.Connect a hand vacuum pump to the downstream pickup marked REF on the sensor.


3.Using a multi meter, back probe the SIG RTN circuit at the DPFE connector.


4.With the ignition ON, signal voltage should be 0.20鈥?.70 volts.


5.Apply 8鈥? in. Hg of vacuum to the sensor. Voltage should be greater than 4 volts.


6.Quickly release the vacuum from the sensor. Voltage should drop to less than 1 volt in 3 seconds.


7.If the sensor does not respond as specified, check the power and ground circuits.


8.If power and ground circuits are functional, the sensor is faulty.


EGR Valve Control Solenoid


1.Remove the EVR solenoid.


2.Attempt to lightly blow air into the EVR solenoid.


A.If air blows through the solenoid, replace the solenoid with a new one.


B.If air does not pass freely through the solenoid, continue with the test.


3.Apply battery voltage (approximately 12 volts) and a ground to the EVR solenoid electrical terminals. Attempt to lightly blow air, once again, through the solenoid.


A.If air does not pass through the solenoid, replace the solenoid with a new one.


B.If air does not flow through the solenoid, the solenoid is OK.


4.If the solenoid is functional but the problem still exists, check the power and ground circuits.


EGR Valve


1.Install a tachometer on the engine, following the manufacturer's instructions.


2.Detach the engine wiring harness connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid.


3.Disconnect and plug the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve.


4.Start the engine, then apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels and position the transmission in Neutral.


5.Observe and note the idle speed.


1.NOTE: If the engine will not idle with the IAC solenoid disconnected, provide an air bypass to the engine by slightly opening the throttle plate or by creating an intake vacuum leak. Do not allow the idle speed to exceed typical idle rpm.





2.Using a hand-held vacuum pump, slowly apply 5鈥?0 in. Hg (17鈥?4 kPa) of vacuum to the EGR valve nipple.


A.If the idle speed drops more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and returns to normal after the vacuum is removed, the EGR valve is OK.


B.If the idle speed does not drop more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and return to normal after the vacuum is removed, inspect the EGR valve for a blockage; clean it if a blockage is found. Replace the EGR valve if no blockage is found, or if cleaning the valve does not remedy the malfunction.|||replace the DPFE sensor...this things fail constantly and produce that code...i can almost guarantee this will take care of your problem